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Jonathan Thompson has spent the last four weeks driving around every single EU country. Here are the nuggets of wisdom he picked up along the way
1. Zagreb is home to Europe’s strangest museum. Dedicated to the study of heartbreak, the Museum of Broken Relationships will make you laugh and cry in equal measure. Although Split might have been a more apt location.
2. The Swedes are Europe’s friendliest nation. They even have a phone number to prove it. You can call The Swedish Number at any time and chat to a “random Swede” about anything you like.
3. They love eating ostrich in Latvia. Seriously, big birds are big business in the little Baltic state. Ostrich carpaccio, ostrich burgers, ostrich pie; the lot. It’s good news if you’re part of a big group though - ostrich omelettes go a long way.
4. Brno is the new Prague. The Czech Republic’s charming second city - and the ancient capital of Moravia - has direct London flights, a picture perfect old town and plentiful accommodation options. Plus a pint of beer is still under ?1.?
5. For Europe’s finest dessert, go Dutch. Specifically, head to the lively city of Den Bosch (marking the centenary of its most famous son,http://www.tzwqxx.com/wygkcn_GuestBook.aspcheapjordanshoesfreeshipping.com/bolg, painter Hieronymous Bosch, this year) and order the Bossche Bol (a super-sized profiterole). You won’t regret it.
6. Europe is home to the world’s smallest city. And Durbuy, nestled jewel-like in the Belgian Ardennes, has a fair claim to be its prettiest too. ?
Danish pastries – or not,http://www.siemprelucenacf.es/index.php/component/user/?option=com_content&view=article&id=115cheapjordanshoesfreeshipping.com/bolg, if you're in Denmark
7. There is only one country in Europe which doesn’t call a Danish Pastry a Danish Pastry. And it’s Denmark. There, strangely, the pastry is referred to as “Vienna Bread”. The sticky treats were invented in Denmark in 1840, by Viennese chefs.
10 great European road... must do in your lifetime
8. A geopolitical anomaly at Europe’s heart boasts some of its finest beaches. The ?land archipelago, a group of 6,500 islands which belong to Finland, have Swedish as their official language - and their own parliament, flag and stamps. Not to mention hundreds of miles of pristine coastline.?
9. The Poles are the kings of dumplings. Do not listen to the Lithuanians or the Czechs on this matter.
10. Pizza is originally from Sicily, not Naples,cheap air jordans. As Stefano, the larger-than-life instructor on our Sicilian Cooking Class in Taormina explained: “It’s like Freddie Mercury: born on an island - Zanzibar. But the mainland, Britain, claimed all the glory.”
11. It takes longer than you‘d imagine to swim to the iconic monastery at the heart of Lake Bled. Leave an hour to be sure. And it’s worth every minute.
Europe's hidden seaside resorts: in pictures
12. Forget Greece and Italy: Europe’s olive oil capital is Catalonia. Specifically the western region of Les Garrigues, where major titles and trophies appear as frequently as they do at Barcelona’s Camp Nou. Check out the sweet, world-beating Oil d'Arbeca for starters.?
13. Bordeaux is the wine capital of the world. As if 8,000 wine producers weren’t enough,cheap jordans, the French city has now unveiled a world class wine museum too. The newly opened La Cité du Vin, boasts eight floors dedicated to the history and culture of wine.
14. Heard the one about the seven hills of Rome? There are actually nine. The best way to explore them - and the rest of the Eternal City - is from a Vespa saddle. Luxury boutique hotel Portrait Roma is offering bespoke tours as part of a package to mark Vespa’s 70th birthday this year - and it has one of Rome’s finest roof terraces to compare notes on over cocktails afterwards.??
15. Irish ferries aren’t just a means of getting to and from continental Europe. They’re also a ridiculously fun night out. Especially if you like Guinness and singing.
16. You’ll be hearing a lot more about Aarhus. New direct flights from London, plus three newly Michelin-starred restaurants and Capital of Culture status in 2017 mean Denmark’s second city is finally stepping out of Copenhagen’s shadow - in a big way.
17. Europe’s toughest border crossing by road is Turkey-Greece. It takes a long time to peel off every single inch of rubber seal from a MINI Clubman, believe me.
Visa application proce...und the world: your guide
18. All South Moravian folk dances are about the same things. Love, wine and war - in that order.
19. You can live like a royal for the day in Vienna. The Sch?nbrunn Suite at the Hapsburg’s summer palace is now available for paying guests. As our guide explained, “it’s like bed and breakfast at Buckingham Palace.”
20. Thessaloniki is a near-perfect city break destination. Greece’s?second city is a rich riot of colour, history, beach vibes and cafe culture. It’s difficult to find a box it doesn’t tick.
European city breaks 2016
21. The Basques are best when it comes to flamboyant design hotels. Check out the masterful Marqués de Riscal for starters. Not to mention the audacious cubist Hotel Viura, hidden at the heart of a sleepy 17th Century village near San Sebastian (and boasting one of the finest restaurants in northern Spain). ??
22,cheap real jordans. Slovakia is Europe’s most castellated country. There are fortresses peppered all over its countryside - particularly in the East, where they stand guard over pretty medieval towns like Levoca and Bardejov.
23. Sat Navs don’t respect EU borders. Hello Belarus!?
24. Poland is home to Europe’s unofficial capital of street art. The urban murals in ?ód? are so exquisite that there’s now talk of making Poland’s third city a UNESCO world heritage site.?? ?
25. The secret to the perfect Irish coffee is using the right cream - and pouring it slowly. “Don’t use anything you wouldn’t pour over strawberries,” says Denis O’Reilly, our ridiculously charismatic guide to the Emerald Isle. “And always put three teaspoons of brown sugar in your wine glass first, before adding the coffee, Irish whiskey and cream - in that order.”
26. Luxembourg City is massively underrated. And it’s wonderfully fun to zip around its narrow, fairytale-like cobbled streets.
Luxembourg City – not dull
27. Flying is massively overrated Especially when there are excellent,Kicksokok.com, affordable ferry connections knitting the entire continent together.
28. We thought it would be difficult to pick our favourite hotel after a month on the road. It wasn’t. It was easily Le Clos St Martin on France’s idyllic ?le de Ré. If there was an eleventh mark out of 10, it wouldn’t be enough for this place. No wonder Shakira was there the same weekend as us.
Read the story of Jonathan Thompson’s Mini Grand Tour of Europe via his blog at mini.co.uk/mini-grand-tour or on Instagram and Twitter??
Lithuania was the first Soviet republic to throw off the shackles, in March 1990. A bloodless breakaway? “Not exactly,” said our local guide, Saulius, as we rolled through the green and pleasant pastures of the region formerly known as Memelland on a warm September morning, passing horse-drawn carts and small wooden farmhouses, their gardens filled with shining apples that cried out to be picked, and dogs that kept us honest.
“We had our own government but the Soviet army never left,” Saulius continued. “After nine months of economic blockade they tried to take the TV Tower in Vilnius, opened fire on the crowd and killed 14 people.” This was on the night of January 13, 1991, an important national anniversary.
Between Lithuanians and Russians, there is no love lost, and recent events in Ukraine will not have made sleep any easier in Vilnius. “It’s raining in Russia today,http://www.midwestartfairs.com/node/add/articlecheapjordanshoesfreeshipping.com/bolg,” our guide would say, looking south with satisfaction. Sailing is popular on the Curonian Lagoon but nobody swims for fear of what Russia might be pumping into it.
The climate in this northern part of Europe does not favour viticulture, but wine and stronger stuff is made from other fruit, and our first stop was the Ceslovo winery near Sveksna, for a pick-your-own (fruit) session in the raspberry patch and a blind tasting in the cellar. First prize to the elegant red chokeberry 2012.

Did you know?

Vytautas Landsbergis, the unlikely hero of the Lithuanian revolution, was a celebrated pianist

Lithuania’s only island, Rusne, sits in the fertile delta of the River Neman which flows into the Curonian Lagoon and marks the Russian border. Rusne is no more isolated than Sheppey, but has kept its insular identity and folklorish traditions. These include fishing and, when the lagoon freezes, ice fishing.
In a thatched barn eco-museum we ate a traditional lunch of fish soup followed by fish. “Better to have fish with bones than bones with no fish” is a Lithuanian proverb that sounds as though it might date back to the Soviet period (1945-90). “When I was a boy, all the best meat went to Moscow,” said Saulius. “We used to say that Lithuania had exploding pigs. After the explosion, only the ears, tail and feet were left.”
The area is a happy hunting ground for birdwatchers – and listeners, for there are corncrakes and bitterns as well as a share of Lithuania’s summer population of 50,cheap jordans for sale,000 storks. We missed the storks by a fortnight but paused on the river bank to look for other wildlife. “Those cormorants are in Russia,” said Saulius. “I hope their visas are in order.”
Lithuania’s birding headquarters is the observatory at Cape Vente, a low-lying promontory that juts out into the lagoon near Rusne and serves as a staging post on one of Europe’s busiest bird migration routes. The head ringer speaks a lively approximation of English and welcomes visitors curious to see him at work.
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02875/TT-lithuania-pier__2875117c.jpg The pier juts out far into the lagoon at[/i] Nida. Photo: Alamy
Strategically placed berry-rich bushes lure birds into the open mouth of large nets of tapering design. Girls waving football rattles drive them to the sharp end where the birdman grabs, rings and records them, and sends them on their way. A different technique may be required for a stork.
Bike-and-boat is the latest craze in cycling holidays,cheap retro jordans, and after the ringing we hauled our bikes on to a flat-bottomed river boat for the hour-long lagoon crossing to Nida, the Curonian Spit’s leading international resort.
The river boat might as well have transported us from north-eastern Europe to Scandinavia: water meadows and flat farming country behind, pine forest and sandhills ahead. Villages of neat holiday homes and b?&?bs line up on leafy avenues beside the lagoon, houses painted a uniform brown, white and blue, and decorated with ornamental weather vanes that give profile information, Facebook-style, about the home owner: profession, religion, relationship status, hobbies.
All habitation and the high dunes are on the lagoon side of the spit, leaving the Baltic shore open and empty, an infinity of soft beach licked by a brackish sea.
Thomas Mann built a summer house at Nida in 1930. Its quiet surroundings and an uninterrupted view of the Curonian Lagoon from his desk made the ink flow, and the house has memorabilia to delight the literary tourist.
Nida also has a good amber museum, where, after a geology lesson, we learnt that the way to find out if a piece of “Baltic gold” is genuine is to put a match to it. If it burns, you know you have destroyed something valuable. We were not brave enough to try this in the souvenir shops, but rolled up our sleeves to attack the local speciality potato-dough pasty, Zeppelin, in the restaurant next door. A 20-mile afternoon might not be enough to work off a double-Zeppelin lunch.
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02875/TT-lithuania-dune__2875123c.jpg The Baltic shore is left open as the high dunes are on the lagoon side of the spit near Nida, Neringa[/i] Municipality, Lithuania. Photo: Alamy
A cycling trail meanders pleasantly through the woods with duckboard paths leading off to the beach on one side and a magnificent wilderness of dunes on the other. This stretch forms part of EuroVelo 10, a complete circuit of the Baltic on the map if not yet on the ground, and is one of the only dedicated cycling trails in the Baltic states.
Access to the Curonian Spit being what it is, Lithuania’s domestic sun-and-sand-seekers head for the coast north of Klaipeda. The resort here, Palanga, is as far removed in style and mood from the quiet villages on the spit as Blackpool is from Salcombe. But if the resorts are quite different, the coastal cycling path was reassuringly similar. A pretty woodland trail led us back to Klaipeda, between the main road and the sea.
Much of the coast is a “strict nature reserve”: no entry, even on foot. “This area was used for military training during the Soviet period,” Saulius explained, when we stopped at a birdwatching hide. “It’s good and it’s bad. The bad is the pollution they left behind. The good is that nothing was built here, no roads, no buildings, nothing. So now we can return it to nature.”
Getting there
The Carter Company (01296 631671; the-carter-company.com) offers self-guided cycling holidays in Lithuania from June to August. Five or six-day circuits from Klaipeda, at about 20 miles a day, cost ?595 per person including bike hire, b?&?b hotel accommodation, and transfers to/from Palanga airport.
Fly to Palanga with SAS (flysas.com) via Copenhagen or Air Baltic (airbaltic.com) via Riga. Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from various UK airports to Vilnius and Kaunas,cheap jordan shoes, with onward bus services to Klaipeda (also from Riga).
Combining the Harwich-Esbjerg and Kiel-Klaipeda car ferry services (dfdsseaways.co.uk) may seem a little recherché, but would be an interesting approach for the unhurried cyclist. Kiel and Esbjerg are separated by 120 miles of attractive cycling country (Denmark and north Germany).
E-bikes (battery power-assisted) are available for an extra charge. The cycling is pretty flat, but an e-bike can help equalise an ill-assorted group. The Carter Company supplies maps and detailed guiding notes, and arranges luggage transport between hotels.
Where to stay
The Old Mill, Klaipeda (oldmillhotel.lt) ?
A smart conversion on the waterfront, overlooking the ferry crossing to the Curonian Spit, and reached by a wooden swing bridge that opens once an hour for 15 minutes to let boats in and out.
National Hotel Klaipeda (nationalhotel.lt) ??
Klaipeda’s most stylish hotel is a marzipan-coloured corner property well placed for exploring the old town and the lively harbour area, with its own nightlife at the Fat Cat bar.
Lithuania has postponed joining the euro until 2015 at least. There are about four litas to the pound. Lithuania is good value, but prices are noticeably higher in and around Nida.
Eating and drinking
Lithuanian cuisine is fine fuel for cycling, with hearty soups, fish and potatoes. Wine is available but beer is more popular – light or dark, and inexpensive. Svyturys is the usual brand: its Ekstra (5.2 per cent) won a gold medal at the World Beer Championships in 2001 and remains good. Fruit/herb brandies are also plentiful, and available from mobile coffee carts in Palanga and on the Curonian Spit. Sakotis is a delicious fast-spin version of the spit-baked German Baumkuchen (tree cake). Recommended restaurants: Pamario Takas (?, alfresco) on the waterfront at Juodkrante (near Nida), Kursis (??) and Seklycia (??) in Nida, Friedrich Pasaze in the old town of Klaipeda.
What to buy
Amber and carved-wood artefacts are the staple souvenirs.
Further information
The official city guide Vilnius in Your Pocket is a model of the genre,jordans for cheap, packed with useful info, and well written.
What to avoid
Disparaging basketball. The national religion? “No, more important than that.”
Planning the trip to include a day in the capital Vilnius is recommended, but don’t make it a Monday, when all monuments including the popular KGB museum are closed.
Read more
Vilnius: a cultural city guide
Follow @TelegraphTravel

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